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A Brief History
of the Portuguese in Hawai`i

The Portuguese, who made their first arrivals
to Hawai`i in 1878, have had an important impact on the
development of Kona. Initially, Portuguese from the Azores
and Madeira came here to work the sugar cane plantations,
seeking a better life. Always industrious, they soon became
landowners and with that came ranching. They were a major
factor in the development of a flourishing dairy industry,
using their skills as stone masons to create miles of stone
cattle pens to hold and protect the livestock, and stone ovens
for cooking and baking bread. Their social and religious customs
added greatly to the rich diversity of the Hawai`i population
of the 19th century.
The Portuguese who came to Kona were predominately
dairy farmers. They brought with them the skills learned from
generations of working with animals to produce milk and butter.
Their skills as builders of stone walls were crucial in the
process of taming the wild cattle to provide beef, hides and
milk for these dairies. Fornos, or Portuguese ovens, were
once found throughout the Hawaiian islands wherever the Portuguese
congregated. Some fornos were communal and were utilized by
entire communities, others belonged to a single family. Each
week these wood burning ovens would be fired up to bake the
family's supply of bread, the staple starch, and also some
extra loaves for bartering or selling. The Portuguese brought
with them expertise in growing and harvesting grapes for wine
making and creating the familiar Portuguese sausage and flavorful
smoked sausages such as linguica and chourico. They are, however,
most known for introducing the ukulele
and slack key guitar to Hawai`i.
Another defining characteristic of the Portuguese
is a strong traditional family structure. From the beginning
of the immigration period which lasted until 1913, Portuguese
who were recruited by the plantations insisted that their
families accompany them. Religion and the church played an
important role in the upbringing of the children; at one of
the dairies high in the mountains above Kona, Portuguese workers
constructed a small chapel, so that the priest could make
monthly visits to the family, thereby maintaining their contact
with religion.
The Portuguese Bread Oven
Recently, the Kona Historical Society has begun
the traditional practice of baking Portuguese bread in their
large wood-fired forno in the pasture behind the H.N. Greenwell
Store Museum. Every Thursday you can see staff and people
from the community getting together to talk story, roll bread
and bake it. This particular stone oven is a communal oven
and made to hold over 30 loaves of bread at a time. An oven
this large needs at least 5 hours of heating time, requiring
a die-hard volunteer to light the fire inside it at 6:00AM.
The dough is mixed, allowed to rise while the oven is heating,
and rolled out to be put into pans. During the second dough
rising, the coals from the fire are removed from the oven
and the bread is put in, using the stored heat inside the
stones to bake it. If you'd like to bake your own Portuguese
Sweet Bread you can use our recipe at home in your gas or
electric stove, eliminating the 7 hour heating and preparation
time!

A volunteer lays the brick. |

Volunteers building the oven. |

The oven sits in the lower pasture
at the Kona Historical Society site at Kalukalu. |

Community members gather on Thursdays
to help roll the dough. |
Stop by and learn how Portuguese immigrants
used a stone oven for baking their sweet bread, Thursdays
11 AM to 2 PM in the lower pasture.
Portuguese Sweet Bread
(Pao Doce - Recipe Makes 4 loaves)
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| Mix together in a
big bowl: |

The freshly baked bread comes
out of the oven in the afternoon. |
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Warm water
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2 cups
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Dry Yeast
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4 pkg.
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| Then stir in:
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Sugar
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2 cups
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Melted Butter
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2 sticks
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Eggs
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4
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| Stir in- one cup at
a time: |
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Bread flour
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3 ¼ pounds or about 14 cups
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When the dough is too difficult to stir, turn
dough out on lightly floured table and knead in the rest of
the flour for about 3-5 minutes. Add more flour if needed
to keep the dough from sticking to the board. Put the dough
back into the bowl and cover it until it has doubled in size
(45 minutes-1 hour). Punch the dough down and divide it evenly
into 4 loaves of dough. Pinch off 7 equal pieces of dough
from each loaf, roll and place in greased 9-inch round aluminum
pie pans. Cover the dough and let rise again until doubled.
Bake in a medium hot oven (350-400 degrees) for about 30-40
minutes.
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